Mar 30, 2008

THE A LIST: BUTTER!!!!!!!!!


THE A LIST: 30 Great Butters (I mean really, could there be a better topic?)

This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #109

The variety of domestic and foreign butters available today—at supermarkets, gourmet stores, and farm markets and directly from creameries both in this country and abroad—is immense. Of the hundred or so butters we sampled during the making of this issue, the following 30 impressed us with their distinctive flavors, textures, and colors. With few exceptions, these butters are free of the added colorings (such as annatto seed extract) and flavorings found in many mass-produced butters. Below, you'll find serving suggestions and recommendations for the best ways to showcase the attributes of these unique butters. Most can be purchased in the United States.


Moorhayes Salted Farmhouse Butter (England) The owners of the Moorhayes dairy produce an amazingly distinctive cultured butter from whey instead of cream; it has a dense texture and a subtly vegetal flavor.


H. J. Wijsman & Zonen Preserved Dutch Butter (Netherlands) This long-keeping canned butter, preserved through the addition of extra salt, has an unctuous texture and a rich, cheeselike taste.


Meyenberg European Style Goat Milk Butter (California) Meyenberg, the biggest goats' milk dairy in the U.S., began making this sweet cream butter in 2004, to much acclaim. It has the lively pungency of fresh goat cheese.


Lactantia Light Butter (Ontario) Lactantia is the maker of Canada's best-selling butter. We loved its unsalted "light" butter. With a fat content of only 60 percent, it's not heavy on the tongue and yet possesses a remarkably distinctive, nuanced flavor.


Liberté Goat Milk Butter (Quebec) Good goats' milk butters like this one have subtle flavors utterly distinct from those of cows' milk products. This boldly flavored but balanced butter is excellent melted on steamed vegetables.


Anchor Salted Butter (New Zealand) This flavorful organic butter is made from the milk of cows that graze on open pasture year-round; its color varies from yellow in the spring to off-white in the colder months.


Pamplie Beurre Traditionnel des Deux-Sèvres (France) Made since 1905 by a cooperative of dairy farmers in Poîtou-Charentes, this is our favorite cultured butter. It's marked by a floral scent and a sweet, clean taste redolent of hazelnuts.


Meggle Unsalted Alpine Butter (Germany) This ivory-colored sweet cream butter has a sweet, nutty flavor reminiscent of mascarpone cheese's. It's the perfect choice for making fine-crumb pastries like shortbread.


Stirling Unsalted Butter (Ontario)
This large dairy company's unsalted sweet cream butter, found in grocery stores across Canada, has a smooth, luxurious consistency and lingers pleasantly on the palate.


Plugrá European Style Butter (Texas) This 82 percent–fat sweet cream butter has been popular with American bakers since the Keller's Creamery introduced it, in 1998, when high-fat butters were not readily available in the U.S.


Delitia Parmigiano Reggiano "Il Burro" (Italy) The same cows' milk that goes into Italy's famed parmigiano-reggiano cheese is used for making this cultured butter. Fans of the cheese will instantly notice the presence of its nutty flavor.


Challenge Butter (California) The sweet cream salted butter from Challenge, the most popular butter brand in the western U.S., is richer in flavor and texture than most supermarket sticks. It has a brie-like taste and a sumptuous texture. (Natural flavoring is added.)


PastureLand Summer Gold Salted Butter (Minnesota) This organic butter made from the cream of pasture-fed cows has a distinctly herbaceous flavor that makes it an excellent accompaniment to seafood.


Fattorie Garofalo Burro di Bufala (Italy) This buffalo milk butter, from a maker of excellent buffalo mozzarella, possesses an intense aromatic profile and grassy taste that go well with strong flavors like those of cured meats.


Amul Salted Butter (India) This sweet cream butter from India (to which annatto seed extract has been added, for color) has a slightly sharp, full-bodied taste, pleasantly reminiscent of cheddar cheese's.


Lurpak Salted Butter (Denmark) Made under the supervision of the Danish Dairy Board for more than a hundred years, this cultured butter has a rich taste that's balanced by a light texture and a bright acidity.


Double Devon Cream Butter (England) This lightly salted cultured butter is churned from the same milk used for making Devon's famous clotted cream and has a deep, slightly floral flavor. We use it on crudités in lieu of dip.


Evans' Farmhouse Creamery Butter (New York) Four organic farms supply the milk from which this butter is made. The bright yellow summer butter has a rich, cheesy flavor that we adored.


Le Gall Beurre de Barratte, Sel de Guérande (France) The marshes adjacent to the Breton town of Guérande yield a famously flavorful fleur de sel, which is the star ingredient in this excellent, ultracreamy artisanal butter.


Cabot 83 Unsalted Butter (Vermont) Cabot butters, made with fresh cream from a large cooperative of family farms, routinely win awards. This one, developed for chefs, is rich in fat but has a delicate flavor and mouth-feel.


Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter (Ireland) Kerrygold salted butter is much loved in Ireland. It has a rich, long, and balanced flavor, with an acidic edge. The unsalted version is ideal for baking.


Animal Farm Farmstead Butter (Vermont) This cultured butter, which has a fat content of 87 percent, is made by hand on a 30-acre family farm and has a bold, grassy flavor.


Horizon Organic European Style Butter (Colorado) As supermarket butters go, this organic version is hard to beat. Smooth but not overly unctuous on the palate, it has a clean, tangy flavor.


L'Ancêtre Bio Organic Salted Butter (Quebec) This is sweet cream butter at its best. A touch of sourness gives way to a long, creamy finish. We loved this organic butter as a base for brown butter sauce.


Fromagerie Jean-Yves Bordier Beurre de Baratte (France) This Breton creamery's handmade butters have earned a cult following in France (see A Butter Quest). A two-step slow-churning process yields a butter of unparalleled smoothness.


Guffanti Burro (Italy) This ultracreamy butter from Lombardy is made by the Guffanti family, which has been making cheeses since 1876. This butter's smooth consistency and fresh flavor make it ideal for baked desserts.


Sagar Pure Ghee (India) Clarified butter, called ghee in India, remains a homemade staple there, but excellent packaged versions are widely available. Sagar ghee has a robust, slightly fermented flavor that lends character to foods cooked in it.


Vermont Butter & Cheese Company Cultured Butter (Vermont) A cooperative of small farms supply the milk for this appealingly sharp-flavored cultured butter, which has a generous fat content of 86 percent.


Lescure Beurre des Charentes (France) "Lescure" is an A.O.C. designation for artisanal butters made in France's Charentes region. Pastry chefs like François Payard covet this butter because it caramelizes well and yields extra-moist crumb in baked desserts.


Straus Organic European Style Sweet Butter (California) This ultrarich sweet cream butter is made in small batches from the milk of pasture-fed cows. We liked its velvety texture and complex herbal notes.


THE A LIST: Be a local hero!

THE A LIST: Be a local hero: America is full of small family-run farms. Finding a nearby farmer’s market, farm stand, food co-op or community supported agriculture program is not as easy as it may seem. However, noted below are several web resources to assist you in your effort to find such things in your local area.

www.ams.usda.gov/farmersmarkets

www.eatwellguide.org

www.buylocalfood.com

www.foodroutes.org

www.localharvest.org

www.sustainabletable.org

www.wilson.edu/csasearch

www.nimanranch.com

www.starroutefarms.com

www.farmtotable.org

THE A LIST: Eat More Responsibly

THE A LIST: Resources to keep up with the latest information about where our food comes from and how to eat more responsibly, check out the following sites.


www.earthpledge.org

www.factoryfarm.org

www.foodsecurity.org

www.growingpower.org

www.heritagefoodsusa.com

www.seedsofsolidarity.org

www.slowfood.com

www.truefoodnow.org

Mar 20, 2008

The Master: James Beard

The Master: James Beard

Born Portland, Ore., 1903; died 1985. Chef. Beard revolutionized American cooking with his emphasis on fine food prepared with fresh local ingredients. Beard appeared on television's first cooking segment on NBC in 1946; he went on to countless TV and radio appearances, wrote regular food columns for several national magazines, and penned more than a dozen cookbooks. In 1955, he established the James Beard School, one of the world's premier culinary institutes. The foundation bearing Beard's name continues to bestow the most prestigious annual culinary awards in America on the nation's top chefs, restaurants, and cookbooks.






The Master at Work: Hamburgers

James Beard’s Favorite Hamburgers

2 pounds ground beef

3 tablespoons finely grated onion

1 tablespoon heavy cream

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 hamburger buns, toasted.

Spread the beef onto a cutting board and sprinkle with the grated onion. Mix in the cream, salt and some freshly ground pepper. Form into patties and cook either on a hot grill or in a hot cast-iron pan, about 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Serve each in a bun. Makes four bergers.

The Master at Work: James Beard

Cream Biscuits

5 tablespoons melted butter

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the surface

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar (optional)

1 ½ cups heavy cream.

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Brush a baking sheet with a little melted butter. Sift 2 cups flour, the baking powder, salt and (if using) sugar into a large bowl. Fold in 1 ¼ cups cream. If the dough is not soft or easily handled, fold in the remaining 1/4 cup cream, little by little.

2. Turn dough onto a floured surface, mound it into a ball and, using a rolling pin or your hands, press it to a thickness of about ¾ inch. Cut into rounds, 2 ½ inches in diameter. Gather dough scraps and continue to make rounds. Dip the top of each round in the remaining melted butter and arrange on the baking sheet. Bake until golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes about 9 biscuits. Adapted from “James Beard’s American Cookery.”

Feb 20, 2008

Chocolate with a serious pedigree from The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella!


Chocolate with a serious pedigree from The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella



Now you can get some aromatherapy with your chocolate

The Santa Maria Novella pharmacy in Florence, Italy, is known for its perfumes and herb- and spice-based items, like candles. Now it has introduced small boxes of elegant wrapped chocolates.


Fragrant rose-flavored dark chocolate and refreshing citrus-flavored milk chocolate, in boxes of 18 pieces for $37, are sold in the Lafco boutique at 285 Lafayette Street (Houston Street), (800) 362-3677. Also try the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy shops in NYC and LA.


Dark chocolates that come with truffled centers seasoned with either alkermes, a venerable spiced liqueur, or chinaberry, said to be a good digestive, are $45 for a box of 12.


About the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella


Adjacent to piazza di Santa Maria novella is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world, established by the Dominican fathers shortly after 1221, the year of their arrival in Florence. In the garden, the fathers began to cultivate the herbs that they need to prepare medications, balms and creams for the monastery's little infirmary. In 1612 the grand duke, Fernando I di Medici, gave the Dominicans permission to open this little store - the pharmacy was opened to the public. A century later their herbal secrets had become internationally renowned. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella has a modest sign near the door and no window in which to display its wares. many of the officina’s preparations have made history and have marked an epoch: the essences, as well as the famous and much requested perfumes, are still prepared to a large extent following the formulas studied in 1500 for Caterina de’ Medici. The history of 'eau de cologne' is quite special in this regard. Indeed, it seems that this was the essence that Caterina de’ Medici, queen of France, took with her to Paris, where it acquired the name of 'eau de la reine'. Later, the Italian Giovanni Paolo Feminis, who moved to cologne in 1725 and began to make it there, changed its name to 'acqua di colonia', as a tribute to the city where it was produced. The 'acqua di rose', rose water, an excellent refreshing tonic for red eyes, was already available for sale in the second half of the fourteenth century. Other favorites include the perfumed powders produced from the ground rhizome of the iris, the flower that grows freely on the hills around Florence in such profusion as to be adopted as the lily symbol of the city, still represented in its coat of arms.


The pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, Italy, which was founded by monks in 1221, has sold its herbal balms and elixirs to the public since the 16th century. Today the shop, with its elaborately decorated ceiling, left, is privately owned and also sells fragrances, teas, honeys and jam like fruit compotes. Lafco, a shop for home and personal products at 200 Hudson Street (Canal Street), recently started selling the pharmacy's food products. There are 16 teas, mostly herbal infusions with great fragrance and intensely clear flavors, packed in boxes covered in Florentine paper ($22 to $30); small paper sachets ($10.50 to $17); and glass canisters with decorative dried flowers in their lids ($28 to $38). One tea, bergamot, is none other than Earl Grey with infinitely more finesse and less bitterness than most. The honeys, some limpid and some thick and creamy, are mostly $16.50 for 8 ounces; the fruit compotes are $18 for 12 ounces.

Feb 16, 2008

THE A LIST: make your own olive oils

THE A LIST: Make your own flavored olive oil for use at home.....It is super easy

For some time now I have been making my own favored olive oil for use in my home kitchen. I always start with an Italian clod pressed organic olive oil as a base. This type tends to have the best flavor as I am mostly using these as flavors on foods vs. cooking with them. The Italian cold pressed oils tend to maintain the rich and creamy flavors we like best in olive oil.

I use the favored oils on all sorts of things - as I always have them on-hand in my kitchen:

they are great on cooked veggies
they are great on popcorn after its been popped
they are great on salad
they are great on grilled meats or veggies
they are great on pasta or risotto or potatoes
love them for dipping a crusty bread
and more

To get started I buy glass bottles that have sealed pop tops or dispensers - I find the best sizes are between 12 and 18 oz. Glass bottles are the best for keeping the oil fresh and clean. Once you use a bottle for a flavor and want to change it up, remember to clean and sanitize the bottle before you change so you don’t layer the flavors.

For the flavors, use the real fresh thing when possible.
Flavors I have in my kitchen now:
Roasted garlic oil
Rosemary oil
Black currant oil
Hot fire roasted chili (Serrano) oil
Six pepper blend oil

Here is what I do -
For the garlic - I roast 4 cloves of garlic and slice them in 4 and drop them in the bottle and fill with oil. cap and let rest in a cool dark space for a week before use

For the herbs - I make sure they are clean and dry - I drop them into the bottle, a use a lot, top with oil. Cap and store as noted above

For black currant - I buy them dried and drop in a cup of the currants, top with oil. Cap and store as noted above

For the hot chili - I grill in a pan, 6 whole Serrano chili peppers until blackened on all sides, drop into the bottle while hot and top with oil. cap and store as noted above

For the six pepper, I start with two tablespoons of French whole peppercorn blend - black, red, white, pink and green and add one teaspoon red pepper flakes. Top with oil and cap and store as noted above.

Its best to store them for the week as it gives the flavors time to mellow and blend.
Before use, sample each for an understanding of the flavors.

I never add salt or citrus as it shortens the lifespan of the oils. Don't store them in the fridge.

In addition to your use, these make great gift ideas and there are loads of flavor ideas to be tried.

Enjoy and always eat well
Aaron

Roasted Cod with Shiitakes in Miso Broth

time: 10 min Start to finish: 20 min

Servings: Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

4 (6-oz) pieces cod or hake fillet (about 1 inch thick) – FRESH FISH ONLY

2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1/4 lb sliced shiitake mushroom caps

2 (1/2-oz) single-serve packages dehydrated red miso soup

1 scallion, thinly sliced

Preparation

Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in middle.
Pat fish dry in a small shallow baking pan and drizzle with 1/2 tablespoon oil, then sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

Toss mushrooms with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, then spread in another small shallow baking pan.


Roast fish and mushrooms, stirring mushrooms once or twice, until fish is just cooked through and mushrooms are crisp, about 10 minutes.


Meanwhile, prepare soup according to package instructions.


Divide soup, mushrooms, and fish among 4 bowls and top with scallion.

Fennel and Carrot Slaw with Olive Dressing


Fennel and Carrot Slaw with Olive Dressing

2 medium fennel bulbs with fronds

5 carrots, coarsely grated

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup Spanish green olives, pitted and finely chopped

6 sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and very thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Preparation

Chop enough fennel fronds to measure 3 tablespoons and reserve. Discard remaining fronds and stalks. Cut bulbs into thin matchsticks and toss with carrots in a bowl.


Whisk together lemon juice, vinegar, oil, olives and salt to taste and toss with vegetables. Chill, covered, at least 30 minutes (for flavors to develop).

Just before serving, stir in reserved fronds and sprinkle sun-dried tomatoes and parsley over slaw.


I love this salad!!!

Feb 13, 2008

THE A LIST: Stuff I Like to Share: HIBISCUS TEA

I LOVE THIS TEA!!!

The flowers of Hibiscus, Rosa sinensis ("Chinese rose") may or may not have originated in China, as its name suggests, but today it is grown around the world. Rich in vitamin C, the full flavor and deep red color of the infusion made from its magnificent blossoms have long made it a favorite healthful beverage, both hot and cold. Hibiscus, also known as red-sorrel, is listed in the German Commission E Monographs and its flower tea was traditionally used internally for stimulating appetite, soothing sore throats, laryngitis and tonsillitis, coughs, dryness of the lungs and digestive upsets. The tea also contains high concentrations of colorful purple flavonoids called anthocyanins that are antinflammatory as well as lots of vitamin C. Anthocyanins are beneficial for skin and vascular health and are also known to coat the surface of cell membranes and protect them from enzymatic and free radical damage. The powdered flowers of a related plant have been shown to stimulate cellular regeneration, cleansing and detoxification.





PREPARATION:
To prepare a hibiscus infusion, use a few pieces, just over a teaspoon, per cup of boiling water and steep about 5 min. Hibiscus is very tart, so you will probably want to sweeten it with honey, sugar or other sweetener. Hibiscus flowers may be infused multiple times. Alternatively, soak ¼ cup (½ oz) hibiscus in a quart of cold water overnight. In the morning strain out the flowers and sweeten to taste.

I like to make mine in a drip coffee pot as it keeps the water hot enough and is easy to clean up. I simply fill the #4 filter and make a full pot. While still hot, I add sliced ginger and a sliced lemon. Once cool, I simply use 2/3 tea to 1/3 water – and serve hot or cold. It’s great to make and keep in the fridge.


Botanical Name: Hibiscus sabdariffa L.Origin: EgyptOrganic: QAI Certified OrganicKosher: KSA Certified



Thank you Bruce

Feb 1, 2008

THE A LIST: The Eat Well Guide


This is a great tool - The Eat Well Guide, the easiest and most comprehensive way for you to find wholesome, fresh, sustainable food in the US and Canada. Find food in your neighborhood and when you travel that is healthful, humane, better for the environment, and that supports family farmers. All you need to do is enter your zip code on the main page of the link below and it will bring up a list of places to find fresh sustainable foods!