Dec 8, 2007

Latkes


Latkes have gained popularity as a Hanukkah dish because they are fried in oil, commemorating the oil that miraculously provided light for eight days. Luckily, Jewish restaurants and delis frequently serve latkes year round, so the dish can be enjoyed at any season. Latkes are also celebrated as the means by which Judith of Holofernes was able to put the Assyrian leader into a deep sleep, and thus was able to behead him. The Assyrians ended their siege because of the death of their leader.

Naturally, latkes could not have been composed of potatoes in ancient times, as potatoes are a New World food. Instead, it is thought that latkes were made of grated cheese bound with a bit of egg, and then fried. A salty cake such as this, along with an ample supply of wine, would certainly have caused any man, Assyrian or otherwise, to feel sleepy.

The introduction of the potato to Europe forever changed the latke. Most often, ancient latke recipes containing cheese are now forsaken in preference to those established in the 18th century.

The word latke is of Yiddish origin, and may have come from either Germany or Russia. As Jews immigrated to the US, so did the tradition of preparing latkes. Many families now prepare these pancakes from recipes over 100 years old. Therefore, even though they are not prepared as in ancient times, potato latkes have a rich history as well.

Though bound in tradition, there are newer recipes that suggest a number of additions to the latkes. Chefs have prepared latkes by adding grated carrots, green chili, ginger, corn, or a mixture of sweet and savory spices or herbs. Sweet latkes with vanilla and cinnamon make an appealing dessert or try a batch with apple grated in. However prepared, these crunchy pancakes are a delicious connection to the past for lots of us.

David Kraemer, a professor at New York's Jewish Theological Seminary, is the author of “Jewish Eating and Identity Through the Ages,” published in June. An avid cook, he wrote the book because he could not find a comprehensive history of Jewish eating practices. Kraemer said Hanukkah foods are expressions of local customs, and are not as religiously important as eating matzoh (the unleavened bread that's a staple during Passover), which is a mitzvah, or commandment. Still, Hanukkah eating habits are not to be trifled with.

“People are very attached to these practices. And even if they might simply be local custom and Jews from other areas don't have the same custom, people care about them deeply, so on that level they're very important,” he said.

I like that in the end he makes this point very clear: “What they learned in their mother's kitchen matters more than anything else.” This is very true to me.

Make latkes a fun project. Include your family and kids and share some history as you pass along traditions. Enjoy.



Latkes

2 tablespoons canola oil
2 pounds (5 medium) peeled medium-starch potatoes, such as Yukon gold
1 medium white onion
1/4 cup all-purpose flour or ¼ cup fine matzo meal
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs, lightly beaten
applesauce and sour cream, for serving

Heat oven to 450º F. Brush 2 baking sheets with 1 tablespoon of the oil and set aside.

Using a box grater or a food processor fitted with a shredding blade, coarsely grate the potatoes and the onion. Place the grated potatoes in a large bowl with the onion, flour, salt, pepper, eggs, and the remaining tablespoon of oil. Toss to mix well.

Drop by rounded tablespoonfuls onto baking sheets and press lightly to make patties.

Bake until golden brown on the bottom. Turn the latkes with a metal spatula and rotate the baking sheets. Bake another 5 minutes or until golden. Transfer to a platter and serve with the applesauce and sour cream.

OPTION: You can also pan fry them in peanut oil until crisp on the edges and the cakes are browned. I also like to add a minced green onion when I pan fry mine.

SHORTCUT – use frozen grated potatoes – AKA hash browns – they are easy to use- simply defrost and mix as noted above.

ENJOY

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